Benagil Caves Speedboat Adventure from Lagos

Lagos Marina and the historic port of Lagos

Lagos sits at the western end of the Algarve, where the Bensafrim river meets the Atlantic. In the fifteenth century it was one of the busiest ports of the Age of Discoveries, and caravels sailed from here down the African coast. The old town still keeps long stretches of its sea walls, the Governor's Castle by the water and cobbled lanes full of tiled facades and small squares.

The modern marina lies across the river from the old centre and is linked to it by a pedestrian drawbridge, so it is easy to reach on foot from most central hotels. This is the starting point of our Lagos boat trip to Benagil, and it is worth arriving a little early to stroll along the riverside promenade. Among the things to do in Lagos, Portugal, a boat ride along the cliffs is the one most visitors remember.

The Algarve coastline between Lagos and Benagil

East of Lagos the coast changes from the long sands of Meia Praia to a wall of honey-coloured limestone. The rock was laid down on an ancient sea floor millions of years ago, and wind, rain and waves have carved it into caves, tunnels, arches and free-standing sea stacks. The speedboat usually runs past the beaches of Alvor and Praia da Rocha, the mouth of the Arade river and the cliffs of Carvoeiro before reaching Benagil.

From the water you see this coast as it is meant to be seen: layer upon layer of ochre, cream and rust-red rock rising straight out of turquoise water, with tiny beaches tucked between headlands. For anyone looking for an Algarve sea caves boat trip, this stretch is the finest, and the speedboat covers it quickly enough to leave time for the caves themselves.

Benagil Cave, the Algar de Benagil

Benagil Cave lies in the municipality of Lagoa, just east of the fishing village of Benagil. Locals call it an algar, the word for a vertical shaft in the rock. Waves hollowed out a huge chamber with a domed roof, and part of the ceiling collapsed to leave a round opening that lets sunlight fall onto a small sandy beach inside. The two arched entrances from the sea make it look like a natural cathedral.

To protect the cave and its visitors, the maritime authorities no longer allow people to land on the beach inside, so the cave is enjoyed from the boat. Is Benagil Cave worth visiting this way? Very much: from the water you see the whole dome lit up, and the skylight frames the sky above you. The light is at its best around midday, which suits both of our departures.

Hidden grottos and pirate hideouts near Carvoeiro

Around Benagil and Carvoeiro the cliffs are riddled with smaller caves, many of them invisible from the clifftop paths. Some open into chambers lit by cracks in the roof, others form tunnels where the swell echoes like a drum. The skipper chooses which ones to show you according to the tide and the state of the sea, so no two trips are quite the same.

Local stories say that corsairs once sheltered in these coves while raiding the coast, which is why forts were built at river mouths such as the Arade. Whether every legend is true or not, the grottos give a strong sense of how hidden this coast once was. A small boat is the only way to see many of them, and it is the part of the Benagil cave boat tour that guests talk about most.

Benagil village and its beach

Benagil itself is a small fishing village perched above a narrow cove, with colourful boats pulled up on the sand and a steep road winding down to the beach. Fishermen still work from here, and in summer the beach is the launch point for kayaks and small boats heading to the cave a few hundred metres away.

From the speedboat you pass close to the cove and see how the village sits between two headlands, with the famous cave hidden just around the corner. It is a good moment to take photos of the coastline from sea level before the boat turns back west towards Lagos. The return run along the same cliffs gives you a second look at the stacks and arches in a different light.