Bernina Line Red Train to Tirano from St. Moritz

St. Moritz and the Upper Engadin

St. Moritz lies at about 1,822 metres beside a calm mountain lake in the Upper Engadin, a high valley famous for its dry, sunny climate and clear light. The railway station sits right on the lakeshore, so the journey begins with views over the water and the forested slopes. The town is a classic winter resort, but in summer the lakes and larch forests of the Engadin are just as beautiful.

Many travellers plan a St. Moritz to Tirano day trip because it crosses from the Alps into Italy in only about two and a half hours. Halal food is limited in St. Moritz and the mountain villages, so breakfast at your hotel and a packed snack are wise; Tirano has many Italian cafés with vegetarian and fish dishes.

The Bernina Pass, glaciers and Lago Bianco

Leaving St. Moritz, the train passes Pontresina and Morteratsch, where you see the long Morteratsch Glacier flowing down from Piz Bernina, at 4,049 metres the highest peak of the Eastern Alps. The track then climbs above the tree line past the Diavolezza station to Ospizio Bernina at 2,253 metres, the highest point of the line and of any through railway in the Alps.

Beside the track lies Lago Bianco, a milky-white lake fed by glacier water, with the dark Lago Nero just beyond on the other side of the watershed. In winter the whole landscape is buried in snow, and the train cuts through high white walls. Sit on the left-hand side towards Tirano for many of the best glacier and lake views.

Alp Grüm and the descent to Poschiavo

Just after the pass, the train reaches Alp Grüm, a tiny station perched on a ledge above the Palü Glacier, with a dizzying view down to the Poschiavo valley and its lake far below. From here the line descends in tight curves and loops at gradients of up to seven percent, among the steepest of any adhesion railway in the world, without the help of a cogwheel.

The red regional trains have windows that open, which is perfect for photography, especially on this section. The vegetation changes quickly from rock and snow to larch forest and then to chestnut trees as the train reaches Poschiavo, an Italian-speaking Swiss town with a handsome piazza and old merchants' houses.

Lake Poschiavo and the Brusio circular viaduct

Below Poschiavo, the train runs along the shore of Lake Poschiavo, a quiet blue lake framed by steep wooded slopes. Further on comes the most photographed structure of the line: the Brusio circular viaduct, a curving stone bridge built in 1908 that lets the train turn a full circle to lose height in the narrow valley.

The Bernina line, opened in 1910, and the Albula line together form the Rhaetian Railway landscape listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. Riding it on the regional train gives you the same scenery as the panoramic express, from standard carriages with a more local atmosphere. Is the Bernina line worth it on the regional train? For most travellers, yes: the views are identical, and you can hop off at stations such as Alp Grüm or Poschiavo and continue on a later train the same day.

Tirano, the Italian end of the line

Tirano sits at about 429 metres in the Valtellina in Italy, so you arrive in a completely different world from St. Moritz: warmer air, terraced green slopes, Italian cafés and the sound of Italian in the streets. The train even runs through the town square before reaching the station. A short stroll away stands the Basilica of the Madonna di Tirano, a large Renaissance church begun in the early 16th century.

Your free time is ideal for lunch, a coffee in the piazza and a look at the old centre. Remember that Tirano is in Italy, so carry your passport or ID card. The return trains run until the evening; check the sample timetable in your travel guide.

Best time to ride and practical tips

The Bernina line runs all year. Summer and early autumn bring green valleys, flowers and the longest days, while winter offers a white landscape above the pass and clear, bright skies. The best time to take the Bernina red train for photos is the morning, when the light on the glaciers is crisp.

Your ticket is for second class with unreserved seats, so arrive at the station 30 minutes early to find a good place, ideally by an opening window. The panoramic Bernina Express carriages are not included. The line is not suitable for wheelchair users on this ticket. If you prefer comfort over flexibility, the first-class option offers roomier seats on the same trains.