Hippo & Crocodile Estuary Cruise, St Lucia

iSimangaliso Wetland Park and the St Lucia Estuary

iSimangaliso Wetland Park stretches along the KwaZulu-Natal coast from the St Lucia Estuary north to the Mozambique border, protecting lakes, coastal forest, dunes, coral reefs and grassland in a single reserve. It was South Africa's first UNESCO World Heritage Site, listed in 1999, and its name in Zulu means a place of wonder. At its southern end, Lake St Lucia and its estuary form one of the largest estuarine systems in Africa, a shallow sheet of water fringed by reeds, mangroves and forest.

The estuary holds the largest hippo population in South Africa and a dense population of Nile crocodiles, which is why a St Lucia hippo cruise is the signature activity of the village. The boat leaves from the jetty beside the estuary bridge on the road into town, a short walk from most guesthouses, so the cruise fits easily into any day.

Hippos of St Lucia

Hippos are the reason most people come. They spend the day in the water to keep cool, surfacing to breathe, yawning widely to show their tusks and grunting to one another, and the skipper approaches each pod slowly from the side so the animals stay calm and the boat stays safe. The ranger explains their behaviour, from the dominant bulls that guard a stretch of water to the mothers that keep calves between themselves and the boat.

At night the same hippos leave the water to graze, and they are a familiar sight on the lawns and streets of St Lucia village, which is why residents and visitors give them a wide berth after dark. Seeing them from the water by day, with the ranger's commentary, is both the safest and the most rewarding way to understand them. Sightings are never guaranteed, but hippos are seen on almost every cruise.

Nile crocodiles on the banks

Nile crocodiles share the estuary with the hippos, and the cruise usually finds several basking on the sandbanks and muddy edges with their mouths open to cool down, or lying motionless in the shallows with only eyes and nostrils showing. Large adults can exceed four metres, and the ranger points out how to tell their age and sex and how they hunt at the water's edge.

The boat keeps a respectful distance, which is also the best distance for photographs, with the animals framed against the reeds and the forest behind. Winter mornings, when crocodiles need the sun most, are often the best time to see them out of the water; in the heat of summer they spend more time submerged. Keep hands inside the boat at all times.

Birdlife of the wetland

The St Lucia Estuary is one of the richest birding areas in South Africa, and even guests who come for hippos leave talking about the birds. African fish eagles call from the dead trees along the bank and swoop for fish, pied and malachite kingfishers hover over the shallows, goliath herons stand in the reeds, and pelicans, cormorants, spoonbills and, in season, flamingos gather on the open water. Weavers build their nests over the channels and the ranger identifies each call.

Binoculars make a real difference, so bring a pair if you have one. The late-afternoon cruise is the favourite of photographers, with golden light on the water and birds returning to roost, while the morning cruises are cooler and often calmer. Whichever you choose, two hours pass quickly on this quiet water.

St Lucia village and how to get there

St Lucia is a small, relaxed village at the mouth of the estuary, about two and a half to three hours' drive north of Durban along the N2 and the R618, and under an hour from the gates of Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park. Among the things to do in St Lucia, the estuary cruise, the beach and Cape Vidal inside the park, turtle tours in summer and a safari in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi make a full two or three days. Hotel pickup is not included for the cruise, but the jetty is within walking distance of most of the village.

The cruise runs year-round. The cooler, dry winter from May to September brings clear skies and animals out in the sun; summer is hot and humid with lush greenery and more birds. Bring a jacket for the breeze on the water, a hat and sunscreen, and your own snacks and drinks if you wish.