Lovina Dolphins, Banyumala Waterfall and Ulun Danu Temple Tour Bali

Lovina Beach and the sunrise dolphin boat

Lovina is a string of quiet fishing villages on Bali's north coast, west of Singaraja, with black volcanic sand and water that is usually much calmer than the surf beaches of the south. It is best known for its dolphins: groups of wild spinner dolphins feed offshore in the early morning, and local boats head out at first light to find them. On this Lovina dolphin tour you board a traditional outrigger boat as the sky turns pink over the mountains.

The captain follows the dolphins at a respectful distance while you watch them leap and swim beside the hull, and you can help spot fins on the water. When conditions allow, you can slip into the sea in your life jacket and see them underwater while holding a wooden rail attached to the boat; touching the animals is never allowed. Sightings depend on nature, but early morning is the best time to see dolphins in Lovina.

Snorkelling on Lovina's coral reef

After the dolphin encounter the captain takes you to a nearby snorkelling spot on the reef that runs along the Lovina coast. The water here is generally clear and sheltered in the morning, and the reef shelters schools of colourful tropical fish, small corals and sea creatures that are easy to see from the surface. Snorkelling gear can be used straight from the boat, and the crew keeps an eye on swimmers from the deck.

In total you spend about three hours at Lovina Beach, including the boat trip, the swim and the snorkel. Back on shore, the basecamp has toilets and a shower room so you can rinse off the salt, and coffee or tea with a Balinese snack is served on a self-service basis before the drive into the hills. If you get seasick easily, take motion sickness medication before the boat ride.

Banyumala Twin Waterfalls in Wanagiri

About half an hour inland from the coast, the road climbs into the forested hills of Wanagiri village, between Lovina and the lakes of Bedugul. A walk down a jungle path leads to the Banyumala Twin Waterfalls, where several slender cascades pour over a moss-covered cliff draped with ferns and vines into a clear natural pool. It is one of the most photogenic waterfalls in North Bali and still feels peaceful compared with the busy falls near Ubud.

You spend about an hour and a half here to walk, take photos and swim in the cool pool, so keep your swimwear and towel at hand. The steps down to the falls are steep and can be slippery after rain, so wear shoes with good grip. How to get to Banyumala Waterfall without a car is not easy, which is why the transfer on this tour makes it simple to combine with the dolphins.

Pura Ulun Danu Bratan on Lake Bratan

The final stop is Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, set on the shore of Lake Bratan in the cool Bedugul highlands at around twelve hundred metres. Founded in the seventeenth century, the temple is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the goddess of the lake, whose waters feed the rivers and rice fields of central Bali. Its slender eleven-tiered shrine stands on a small island and seems to float on the water when the lake is high.

You have about an hour to walk the lakeside gardens, admire the shrines against the misty crater hills and take memorable photos. The air is noticeably cooler than at the coast, so a light layer is welcome after the waterfall. From the temple, the drive back to Central Bali takes roughly two hours depending on traffic, closing a long but varied day that covers the sea, the jungle and the highlands of the north.