Private Royal Tombs and Thien Mu Pagoda Tour by Dragon Boat, Hue

Perfume River dragon boat

The Perfume River, Song Huong, flows through the heart of Hue, and its gentle current and green banks have inspired Vietnamese poets for centuries. Its name is said to come from the flowers and herbs that once fell into the water upstream and scented it in autumn. Traditional dragon boats, with carved dragon heads at the bow and bright painted sides, were once used by the court and are now the classic way to travel on the river.

On this private Hue tour the dragon boat is only for your party. The cruise upstream to Thien Mu Pagoda takes about 30 minutes, passing sampans, fishermen casting nets, riverside houses and the city's bridges. It is a calm, scenic start to the day and a lovely moment for photos, especially in the soft morning light. Your guide uses the time to introduce the history of the imperial city.

Thien Mu Pagoda

Standing on a low hill on the north bank of the river, Thien Mu Pagoda, the Pagoda of the Celestial Lady, was founded in 1601 and is the oldest and best-loved religious site in Hue. Its symbol is the octagonal Phuoc Duyen Tower, about 21 m high, whose seven storeys each represent a stage on the path to enlightenment. Beside it stand pavilions sheltering a giant bronze bell cast in 1710 and a marble stele carried on the back of a stone turtle.

Behind the gate, the active monastery has peaceful gardens of bonsai and frangipani, and young monks can often be seen at study or at work. Please dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and speak quietly. Plan around 30 to 40 minutes here. From the pagoda your private car is waiting to drive you south towards the royal tombs in the hills.

Minh Mang Tomb

About 12 km south of the city, Minh Mang Tomb is considered the most harmonious of the royal tombs of Hue and is part of the Complex of Hue Monuments, listed by UNESCO in 1993. Completed in 1843 near the meeting of two rivers, it is laid out along a single central axis around 700 m long, leading through gates, a courtyard of stone mandarins, elephants and horses, a stele pavilion, temples and terraces.

Lakes shaped like crescent moons, bridges and the elegant two-storey Minh Lau pavilion reflect in the water before the path ends at the circular walled burial mound, hidden among pine trees. The symmetry, the quiet and the birdsong make it one of the most photogenic places in central Vietnam. With your private guide you can wander at leisure; most guests spend about 45 minutes to an hour here.

Khai Dinh Tomb

Khai Dinh Tomb, the last great royal tomb of Hue, was built between 1920 and 1931 on the steep slope of Chau Chu Mountain, and it looks like no other monument in Vietnam. Made of concrete darkened by time, it blends Vietnamese tradition with European and other influences in its gates, pillars and balustrades. A long, steep staircase flanked by dragons climbs to the honour courtyard with its rows of stone mandarins.

The highlight is Thien Dinh Palace at the top, whose walls and ceilings are covered entirely in mosaics of coloured glass and porcelain, forming flowers, landscapes and dragons that shimmer in the light. Is Khai Dinh Tomb worth visiting? Even though it is the smallest of the three, many travellers find it the most striking. Allow about 40 minutes, and take your time on the stairs.

Tu Duc Tomb and Thuy Xuan Incense Village

Tu Duc Tomb, completed in 1867 in a valley about 7 km from the centre, was designed as a palace retreat as well as a tomb and was used during the ruler's lifetime. Surrounded by a wall and a pine forest, it centres on a lotus lake with the wooden Xung Khiem pavilion built over the water, where the court once relaxed. Beyond lie temples, one of the country's oldest theatres and a vast stone stele.

On request, the route ends at Thuy Xuan Incense Village, where families still make incense sticks by hand and fan them out in brilliant bundles of red, yellow and purple to dry in the sun. You can try rolling a stick yourself and take colourful photos. The best time to visit the Hue royal tombs is early morning or late afternoon, and February to April for the most comfortable weather.