Omakase Sushi & A5 Wagyu Premium Food Tour in Shinjuku Tokyo

Omoide Yokocho, Shinjuku's lantern-lit food alley

The tour begins near the west exit of Shinjuku Station, the busiest railway station in the world, and soon slips into Omoide Yokocho. This tangle of narrow lanes grew out of a street market that appeared here after the Second World War, and it still holds dozens of tiny eateries, many with only a handful of seats, where cooks grill skewers over charcoal under red paper lanterns.

Walking through Omoide Yokocho in the early evening is one of the most atmospheric things to do in Shinjuku: smoke drifts from the grills, salarymen squeeze onto wooden stools and the high-rise towers glow just above the rooftops. Your guide explains how the alley survived redevelopment and how small counter restaurants work in Japan, setting the scene for the dinner to come.

Edomae omakase sushi at a hidden counter

The first meal is an omakase sushi course, which literally means 'I leave it up to you': the chef chooses and prepares each piece according to the season and the day's best fish. The style served is Edomae sushi, born in Tokyo, then called Edo, about two centuries ago, when nigiri was a quick snack sold from street stalls near the bay.

You sit at the counter for about 50 minutes and watch the chef shape each piece by hand, from lean and fatty tuna to white fish, shellfish and seasonal specialities. High-end sushi restaurants have their own etiquette, such as how to dip, when to use your hands and why you should eat each piece straight away, and your guide teaches you all of it so the meal feels relaxed rather than intimidating.

Kabukicho, Tokyo's neon entertainment district

Between the two dinners you walk for about 10 minutes through Kabukicho, the largest entertainment district in Asia. Its name comes from a kabuki theatre that was planned here after the war but never built. Today it is a dazzling grid of neon signs, giant screens, game centres and restaurants that stays busy until late into the night.

For many visitors Kabukicho is the image of futuristic Tokyo, but it can feel confusing on your own. With a local guide you see its most photogenic streets safely, learn which parts are worth exploring and which to skip, and pick up stories about how the area changed from marshland to the city's liveliest night-time quarter. Bring your camera: this is the brightest part of the evening.

A5 wagyu yakiniku grilled at your table

The second dinner takes place at a hidden yakiniku restaurant, where diners grill thin slices of meat on a tabletop roaster. Here you taste Kagoshima Black Beef, a wagyu breed from southern Japan that won the top prize at Japan's national wagyu competition, held only once every five years. A5 is the highest grade in the Japanese system, given only to beef with the finest marbling, colour and texture.

Your guide shows you how to control the heat and how long each cut needs, so every slice melts in your mouth. The stop lasts about 50 minutes and includes a full wagyu set; if you do not eat meat, a vegetarian set can be arranged in advance. Many travellers say this is the best wagyu experience in Tokyo because you cook it yourself at the table.

Taiyaki and the final stops

After dinner the group settles in at a cosy local spot for about 40 minutes to enjoy the two included drinks, with soft drinks, juices and teas available, and to chat with the guide about life in Tokyo. It is a relaxed pause before the sweet ending and a good moment to ask for restaurant tips for the rest of your trip.

The night ends at a small local café with taiyaki, a fish-shaped cake filled with sweet red bean paste that has been sold in Tokyo for more than a century. It is crisp on the outside, soft inside and best eaten warm. You then walk back together to the meeting point near Shinjuku Station, about 3 to 3.5 hours after you started, with the trains a few minutes away.