Hoa Lu, Bai Dinh, Trang An and Mua Cave Day Tour from Ninh Binh

Hoa Lu ancient capital

Hoa Lu was the first capital of an independent Vietnamese state, the kingdom of Dai Co Viet, from 968 to 1010. Three dynasties ruled here, the Dinh, the Early Le and briefly the Ly, before the capital moved to Thang Long, today's Hanoi. The site was chosen for defence: a ring of limestone mountains formed natural ramparts, with rivers and marshes in between.

Today you visit the two temples dedicated to the Dinh and Le kings, rebuilt in the seventeenth century on the old palace grounds. Stone dragons guard the steps, and inside you see gilded altars, carved wooden panels and ancient stone thrones. Our guide spends about an hour here, explaining the history of the period, and the visit starts the day at a gentle pace about half an hour from your hotel.

Bai Dinh Pagoda complex

Bai Dinh is one of the largest Buddhist complexes in Southeast Asia, built on a hillside west of Ninh Binh beside an older pagoda that dates back many centuries. The new complex was built from 2003 and is laid out on a grand scale: long covered corridors lined with hundreds of carved stone arhat statues, a bell tower with a huge bronze bell, and great halls holding giant gilded bronze Buddha statues.

Allow around two hours to walk from the gate to the main halls and the tall stupa tower, whose upper floors look over the hills and lakes. Electric cars run between the car park and the entrance area. Is Bai Dinh Pagoda worth visiting? For its scale, craftsmanship and calm, most travellers say yes. It is a place of worship, so wear clothes that cover shoulders and knees.

Trang An boat ride

After lunch you board a small sampan in the Trang An Landscape Complex, inscribed by UNESCO in 2014 as Vietnam's first mixed natural and cultural World Heritage Site. A local rower guides the boat along the Sao Khe River and its side streams, through a series of water caves so low that you sometimes duck your head, and past temples on tiny islands reached only by boat.

The ride lasts about two hours. Trang An is quieter and greener than many visitors expect, with kingfishers and herons along the banks and jungle hanging from the cliffs. Each boat carries a small group, and the slow rhythm of the oars makes it the most peaceful part of the day. The best time to visit Trang An is early morning or late afternoon on weekdays, when the piers are least busy.

Mua Cave and the Lying Dragon viewpoint

The day ends at Mua Cave, at the foot of Ngoa Long, the Lying Dragon mountain. About 500 stone steps climb the spine of the ridge to a stone dragon and a small shrine, and from the top you look over the Ngo Dong River winding through the rice fields of Tam Coc and over endless limestone peaks. The climb takes most people 20 to 30 minutes, with rest points along the way.

Arriving around 15:30 gives you the softest light of the day, and in clear weather you can stay for the sunset before returning to the vehicle. From May to July the lotus pond at the foot of the mountain is in bloom. The steps are steep and uneven, so take your time and wear shoes with good grip; water is available at the base.

Ninh Binh, Tam Coc and Trang An as your base

Many travellers choose to spend a night or two in Ninh Binh rather than visiting on a day trip from Hanoi, which is about two hours away by road or two to two and a half hours by train. Staying in Tam Coc or Trang An lets you see the landscapes in the quiet morning and evening hours, and this tour is designed for exactly that: pickup from your hotel and back again, without the long highway drive.

Ninh Binh is lovely all year, but late May and early June bring golden rice before the harvest, and September to November is pleasantly warm and dry. Summer is hot and humid, with short heavy showers. Halal food is limited in Ninh Binh; vegetarian and seafood dishes are easy to find, and the restaurant on this tour offers vegetarian choices.