Lokobe National Park Tour from Nosy Be

Lokobe National Park, the ancient forest of Nosy Be

Lokobe lies in the south-east of Nosy Be and covers about 862 hectares of forested hills sloping down to the sea. It is one of the last remnants of the original lowland rainforest that once covered the island. For decades it was a strict reserve open mainly to scientists, and it has welcomed ecotourism visitors only since 2014, which is why the forest feels so untouched. Its name is often explained as meaning "many colours" in Malagasy.

A Lokobe tour is the easiest way to see the wild Madagascar forest without travelling to the mainland. Visitors often ask whether Lokobe National Park is worth visiting; for anyone curious about lemurs and the unique wildlife of Madagascar, it is the top nature experience on Nosy Be and pairs well with a few beach days.

Black lemurs and the wildlife of Lokobe

The stars of Lokobe are the black lemurs. Males are jet black, while females are a warm chestnut colour with pale ear tufts, so groups look surprisingly varied. They move through the canopy in small troops and your guide knows where they usually feed. The forest also shelters a nocturnal sportive lemur found only on Nosy Be, which you may glimpse resting in a tree hollow during the day.

Reptiles are everywhere once your eye adapts: panther chameleons in vivid greens and blues, tiny leaf chameleons on the forest floor, leaf-tailed geckos perfectly camouflaged against bark and the harmless Madagascar tree boa. Watching quietly and keeping your distance gives the best chance of sightings. All animals here are wild, so sightings vary from day to day.

The forest trail and centuries-old trees

The guided walk lasts about one and a half hours on narrow forest paths. You pass giant trees with buttress roots, lianas, ferns and wild orchids, as well as plants used in traditional Malagasy medicine, which your guide explains along the way. The terrain includes some slopes, roots and uneven ground, so comfortable closed shoes are important, and the air under the canopy is warm and humid.

The best time to visit Lokobe is in the dry season, from about April to November, when the paths are firmer, but the forest is green and lively all year. Morning visits are cooler and the animals are often more active. Insect repellent, light long trousers and water make the walk much more pleasant.

The boat ride and the beach at the forest's edge

Part of the charm of this day is how you arrive. After a drive of about 40 minutes across Nosy Be, you continue by boat for about 40 minutes along the coast, a route that answers the common question of how to get to Lokobe, since the forest is not reached by a main road. Along the way you see fishing villages, mangroves and the green slopes of the reserve rising from the water.

After the walk you enjoy lunch with soft drinks and water and a two-hour break at the edge of the forest, by a quiet beach where outrigger canoes rest on the sand. It is a relaxed moment to swim, rest in the shade and look back at the hills you have just explored before the boat and car take you back.