Old Orhei and Curchi Monastery Day Trip from Chisinau

Curchi Monastery, the pearl of Moldova

About 80 minutes' drive north of Chisinau, in the hills of the Orhei district, Curchi Monastery rises above a quiet valley like a small walled town. Founded in the second half of the 18th century, it grew into one of the largest monastic complexes in Moldova, and its centrepiece, the great neoclassical Church of the Nativity of the Mother of God with tall white columns and a broad dome, was completed in the 19th century. Older and smaller churches, monks' cells and gardens surround it.

During the Soviet period the monastery was closed and its buildings were used for other purposes, falling into decay. Monastic life returned after Moldova's independence and a long restoration has brought back its bright facades and tidy courtyards. On this Curchi Monastery tour you spend about 30 minutes inside the complex with your guide, enough time to step into the church, admire the iconostasis and take photos of the main facade.

Old Orhei (Orheiul Vechi) and the Răut River valley

Old Orhei, or Orheiul Vechi, is the most famous landscape in Moldova and the main reason travellers take an Old Orhei day trip from Chisinau. Here the Răut River has cut a deep, curving gorge through a limestone plateau, and people have lived on these cliffs for more than two thousand years. Archaeologists have found traces of an ancient Getic fortress, the remains of a 14th-century Golden Horde town with a mosque, bathhouses and a caravanserai, and the stone walls of the medieval Moldovan town of Orhei.

Today the area is a protected archaeological and natural reserve and is on Moldova's tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage. Your guide spends about one hour and 45 minutes with you here, walking along the ridge, explaining the different layers of history and stopping at the viewpoints where the river loop, the meadows and the village roofs open up below. It is one of the best panoramas in the country, especially in soft morning or late-afternoon light.

The cave monastery in the cliff

The highlight of Old Orhei is the cave monastery dug into the cliff face high above the river. Orthodox monks carved cells and a small chapel into the soft limestone centuries ago, and a small monastic community lives here again. You reach it by a path and stone steps cut into the rock; inside, candlelight falls on simple icons, and an opening in the rock frames a breathtaking view of the valley.

Above the cave stands the white Church of the Ascension, built in the early 20th century, with its bell tower visible from far across the reserve. About 30 minutes are planned for the cave monastery and the hilltop church. As this is an active place of worship, keep your voice low, dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered, and be ready for steps and uneven ground. Many travellers say this quiet chapel in the rock is the most memorable moment of the day.

Butuceni village

Below the cliff, in the bend of the river, lies Butuceni, a village that keeps much of its traditional character. Low houses with blue-painted windows, carved wooden gates and vine-covered courtyards line its lanes, and some homes have become small guesthouses and museums of rural life. Walking through the village with your guide gives you a feel for everyday Moldovan countryside life, with gardens, orchards and views back up to the cave monastery.

Lunch is not included in the tour, but an optional traditional Moldovan lunch in Butuceni can be arranged and paid locally. Typical dishes include placinte (filled pastries), mămăligă (maize porridge) with cheese and sour cream, stuffed cabbage leaves and fresh garden vegetables. If you prefer, you can simply enjoy the views and the village atmosphere while others eat, then continue with the group.

The drive through the Moldovan countryside

The journey itself is part of the experience. Leaving Chisinau, Moldova's green capital, the road runs north across rolling hills, fields of sunflowers and maize, orchards and small villages with painted wells and roadside churches. Your guide uses the time in the car or minivan to tell you about Moldova's history, language and traditions, and to answer questions about life in the country today.

If you are wondering how to get to Old Orhei from Chisinau, the reserve lies about 60 km north of the city and public transport is limited, so a guided tour with transport is by far the easiest way to see both Curchi Monastery and Orheiul Vechi in one day. After the last stop you return directly to Chisinau, arriving back at the pickup hotels in the late afternoon, about 7 hours after you set off.