Hill of Crosses and Jelgava Day Tour from Riga

The Hill of Crosses, Lithuania

The Hill of Crosses, Kryžių kalnas in Lithuanian, is a low mound about 12 kilometres north of the city of Šiauliai, once the site of an old hill fort. Crosses began to appear here in the nineteenth century, when families remembered relatives lost in the uprisings of 1831 and 1863. During the Soviet period the authorities bulldozed the hill several times, yet people returned at night to plant new crosses, and the site became a quiet symbol of faith and national resistance.

Today crosses in their thousands cover the hill and its paths: tall carved wooden crucifixes, tiny pendants, rosaries, metal sculptures and stones with messages in many languages. Lithuanian cross-crafting is recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. Is the Hill of Crosses worth visiting? Its atmosphere is unlike anywhere else, and this Hill of Crosses day trip gives you around 80 minutes, with a guided introduction first and then free time to walk, reflect and photograph.

Through the Zemgale plain to the Lithuanian border

The drive south from Riga crosses Zemgale, Latvia's most fertile region, a flat landscape of wide fields, birch woods, farmsteads and small rivers. After about an hour the minibus stops at a local café for a short break, with toilets and snacks to buy, before continuing towards the border.

Latvia and Lithuania are both in the Schengen Area, so there are no passport checks at the crossing, but a short photo stop by the border signs lets you mark the moment you step from one country into another. You still need your passport or national ID card with you, as identity checks are possible. How to get to the Hill of Crosses from Riga without a car is a common question, as public transport involves changes in Šiauliai; this tour simply takes you there and back in one easy day.

St Simeon and St Anne Orthodox Cathedral, Jelgava

On the way back the tour enters Jelgava, Latvia's fourth-largest city and, as Mitau, the capital of the Duchy of Courland for more than two centuries. Your first stop is the Cathedral of St Simeon and St Anne, an Orthodox church in Russian Byzantine style, built in the early 1890s on the site of an older wooden church. Its white walls and blue domes topped with golden crosses make it one of the most photographed buildings in the city.

Badly damaged in the twentieth century, the cathedral was carefully restored after Latvia regained independence and is again an active place of worship. Inside you see icons, a carved iconostasis and painted details, and your guide explains the role of the Orthodox community in this part of the Baltics. The visit lasts about 20 minutes; please dress modestly and keep your voice low if a service is under way.

Holy Trinity Church Tower, Jelgava

A few minutes away stands the Holy Trinity Church Tower, the only part of a large Lutheran church to survive the fighting of 1944, when much of Jelgava was destroyed. For decades the tower stood as a shell; it was rebuilt and reopened in 2010 as a visitor centre with exhibitions about the history of the city and a viewing platform at the top.

The tower is a symbol of Jelgava's recovery, and from its base your guide points out how the old city looked before the war. The guided stop here lasts around 15 minutes. From the area you can also see across to the great baroque Jelgava Palace, the former residence of the dukes of Courland, designed by the same court architect who created Rundāle Palace and now houses a university.

Driksa riverside promenade

The last stop is the promenade along the Driksa, a branch of the Lielupe river that flows through the centre of Jelgava. Benches, lawns and cafés line the water, with views of the palace and the bridges, and it is a pleasant place for a short walk after the morning's emotion at the Hill of Crosses.

Here you have about an hour for coffee, dessert or lunch at your own expense, with your guide suggesting places nearby. Meals are not included, so bring some cash or a card. After the break the minibus returns to Riga, about an hour's drive, arriving back at Town Hall Square in the Old Town in the late afternoon, around seven and a half hours after departure.