Shahrisabz Day Trip from Samarkand via the Takhtakaracha Pass

The Takhtakaracha Mountain Pass

The road from Samarkand to Shahrisabz is only about 90 kilometres, but it is one of the most scenic drives in Uzbekistan. Instead of the long valley road, this trip takes the Takhtakaracha Pass, which crosses the Zarafshan range at around 1,700 metres. The road climbs in many tight bends, with green slopes in spring, golden grass in summer and sometimes snow in winter, and wide views back towards the Samarkand valley.

Near the top you stop for about 20 minutes to take photos of the mountains and the valleys on both sides. Along the road, local families sell dried apricots, raisins, walnuts, almonds and seasonal fruit from small stalls, and you can taste and buy them. Because the road is winding, please tell us if you suffer from motion sickness; the pass may also close in heavy snow, when the driver takes the valley road instead.

Shahrisabz and the Ak-Saray Palace

Shahrisabz, whose name means green city, is one of the oldest towns of Central Asia, known in ancient times as Kesh, and its historic centre has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 2000. Many travellers ask whether a Shahrisabz day trip is worth it: the answer lies in the scale of its late 14th-century monuments, built when the town was one of the most important in the region.

The Ak-Saray, or White Palace, was begun in 1380 and took more than 20 years to build. Today only the two huge pylons of its entrance arch still stand, about 38 metres high, yet even this ruin shows how vast the palace once was. Your guide shows you the fine mosaic of blue, white and gold tiles and the calligraphy that still covers the brick, and explains how the arch was once one of the largest in the Islamic world. You spend about 45 minutes here.

The Dorus Saodat memorial complex

A short walk from the palace, Dorus Saodat, the Seat of Power, was built in the late 14th century as a memorial complex for the ruling family. Only part of it survives, but the tall mausoleum of a young prince of the dynasty, with its ribbed conical dome and tiled portal, still stands beside a modern square. Inside, the plain white walls and the soft light create a calm atmosphere.

Behind the mausoleum, steps lead down to an underground crypt with a simple stone sarcophagus. It was prepared for the founder of the dynasty, but he was buried in the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum in Samarkand instead, so the crypt stayed empty. It is a small detail, but it links Shahrisabz directly to the monument where your trip began that morning. The visit lasts about 45 minutes, and modest clothing is expected.

Dorut Tilovat and the Kok-Gumbaz Mosque

The third stop is the Dorut Tilovat complex, the House of Meditation, a quiet religious ensemble in the old centre. Its main monument is the Kok-Gumbaz Mosque, built in 1435 as the Friday mosque of the town and named after its great blue dome. Around the courtyard stand two mausoleums, including that of a revered 14th-century sheikh, and the family tomb of a line of local religious leaders.

The Kok-Gumbaz Mosque is still used for prayer, so visitors are asked to cover shoulders and knees, and women may be asked to cover their hair. Your guide explains the inscriptions and the geometric tilework, and there is time to walk around the complex, about 30 minutes in all. Entrance fees for the Shahrisabz sites are not included and are paid on site, usually in cash.

Lunch on the pass and the return to Samarkand

On the way back over the Takhtakaracha Pass, the group stops at a restaurant known for tandir lamb, meat slow-cooked in a clay oven until it falls from the bone, served with bread, salads and tea. Lunch is not included in the price and is paid on site; halal food is the norm in Uzbekistan, and vegetarian dishes such as salads, bread and soups are usually available.

After lunch the driver continues down the pass, with the evening light often making the mountain views even better than in the morning. The total trip lasts about 7 hours, so you are back at the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum in Samarkand in the late afternoon, in time for dinner or an evening walk to Registan Square.