Registan, Shah-i-Zinda & Bibi-Khanym Guided Walking Tour Samarkand

Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, the Tomb of the Amir

Gur-e-Amir, whose name means Tomb of the Amir, is the mausoleum of Amir Temur, the 14th-century conqueror who made Samarkand the capital of an empire from India to Anatolia. Built in the early 1400s, it holds the tombs of Temur, his sons and his grandson Ulugh Beg under a ribbed turquoise dome that inspired later Mughal mausoleums in India. Inside, the walls shine with gilded papier-mâché and blue onyx, and Temur's grave is marked by a block of dark green jade, one of the largest pieces of jade in the world.

Our Samarkand walking tour begins at the entrance, where your guide explains the dynasty, the architecture and the legends attached to the tomb. Allow around 40 minutes to an hour inside. Gur-e-Amir is also stunning after dark when the dome is lit, so many travellers return in the evening. The tickets are bought at the gate, and the mausoleum is a short walk from the Registan.

Registan Square and its three madrasahs

Registan Square is the most famous ensemble in Central Asia and the reason many people travel to Uzbekistan. Three madrasahs face each other across the plaza: the Ulugh Beg Madrasah, completed in 1420 when the astronomer-ruler taught mathematics here; the Sher-Dor Madrasah of the 1630s, famous for the tiger-like lions chasing deer under human-faced suns on its portal; and the Tilya-Kori Madrasah of the 1660s, whose mosque interior is covered in gold leaf. Together they show two centuries of tilework, geometry and calligraphy.

Your guide decodes the patterns, separates history from legend and leads you into the courtyards, where former student cells now house craft workshops. Expect about two hours here, including photo stops and the coffee break on the square. The Registan tour is the centrepiece of the walk; if you want to come back, the square is also beautifully lit in the evening. Registan tickets are bought on site at the entrance.

Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Temur's great mosque

The Bibi-Khanym Mosque was raised between 1399 and 1404 on Temur's return from his Indian campaign, intended as the largest mosque in the Islamic world. Stone and craftsmen were brought from across the empire, and elephants hauled the materials. Its scale was so ambitious that parts began to crack soon after completion, and an earthquake in 1897 brought down much of the structure. Extensive restoration since the 1970s has rebuilt the main portal and domes, while the original walls still show the size of the project.

In the courtyard stands a giant marble stand made to hold an enormous Quran, and local tradition links the mosque's name to Temur's senior wife. The walk from the Registan takes about 15 minutes along the pedestrian street, and the guided visit lasts around 30 minutes. Visitors should dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered.

Siyob Bazaar, Samarkand's oldest market

Right beside the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Siyob Bazaar is the oldest and busiest market in Samarkand, where local families still do their daily shopping. Under its covered halls you find stacks of the city's famous round non bread, stamped with patterns and baked in clay ovens, along with halva, sugar crystals called novvot, dried apricots, raisins, almonds and pistachios. Spices, fresh fruit and textiles, including suzani embroidery, fill the outer rows.

The tour gives you around 30 minutes of free time here, and your guide helps you taste, order and bargain politely. It is the best place to buy edible souvenirs. Food in Samarkand is naturally halal, so the bread, sweets and snacks at the market suit Muslim travellers without any searching. Keep some small cash in local currency, as many stalls do not accept cards.

Shah-i-Zinda necropolis, the avenue of blue tombs

Shah-i-Zinda, meaning the Living King, is a narrow avenue of mausoleums built over about eight centuries, from the 11th to the 19th, on the slope of the ancient Afrasiyab hill. Most of the tombs belong to Temur's family and nobles of his court, and their walls are covered from floor to dome in carved and glazed tiles in every shade of blue and turquoise, some of the finest ceramic work in the Islamic world. At the far end lies the oldest shrine, linked to Qusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad, which makes the site a place of pilgrimage.

This is the finale of the walk, and many travellers call it the highlight of Samarkand. Your guide takes you tomb by tomb for about an hour, explaining who is buried where and the legend behind the name. Afternoon departures reach Shah-i-Zinda in the soft light before sunset. As an active pilgrimage site, it asks for modest dress and quiet voices.