Port Stephens Dolphin Discovery Cruise

Port Stephens harbour

Port Stephens is a large natural harbour on the coast of New South Wales about two and a half hours north of Sydney, with an area more than twice that of Sydney Harbour and a narrow entrance guarded by two volcanic headlands, Tomaree and Yacaaba. Inside, the water is calm and shallow, fringed by sandy bays, mangroves and the holiday towns of Nelson Bay, Shoal Bay and Salamander Bay. The protected conditions explain why a Port Stephens dolphin cruise is so comfortable: the boat stays inside the heads and the water is rarely rough.

The cruise follows the southern shore and the open bays near the entrance, where the dolphins hunt in the tidal currents. From the deck you see the forested slopes of Tomaree National Park, the oyster leases of the western harbour and the long sand spit of the Myall coast on the northern side. The captain's commentary covers how the harbour formed, its fishing and oyster history and the wildlife you pass.

Nelson Bay and the marina

Nelson Bay is the main town of Port Stephens, built on the hill above a sheltered cove with the marina at its foot, and it is where the cruise departs. The waterfront has a promenade, cafes and the berths of fishing boats and cruise vessels, with Fly Point, a marine sanctuary popular with snorkellers, a short walk to the east. The town is easy to reach by car from Newcastle or Sydney, and local buses connect it with Shoal Bay, Salamander Bay and Anna Bay.

If you are wondering how to get to the Port Stephens dolphin cruise, head for the marina at Nelson Bay; the exact berth is on your confirmation and there is public parking nearby. Arrive about 20 minutes before the 10:30 or 13:30 departure to check in. After the cruise, the Nelson Bay waterfront is a pleasant place for lunch, and the lookout on Tomaree Head is a ten-minute drive away.

The resident bottlenose dolphins

Port Stephens shelters a resident pod of Indo-Pacific bottlenose dolphins that live in the harbour all year rather than passing through, which is why dolphin watching in Port Stephens is reliable in every season. The animals are born here, feed on the schools of fish that move with the tides and are often seen in small family groups near the entrance, around Shoal Bay and off the oyster leases. Calves appear in spring and summer and stay close to their mothers for years.

The captain knows the pod's habits and usually finds them within the first part of the cruise, slowing the boat so the dolphins can approach on their own terms; they frequently ride the bow wave and surf the wake. Is Port Stephens worth visiting for dolphins alone? Many travellers think so, and the best time to visit for a sighting is any calm day, with mornings often the most active.

The boom net experience

The boom net is a large net stretched from a boom at the back of the boat and lowered to the water once the vessel is in a safe, open part of the harbour. Guests who want to take part climb in, hold the ropes and are towed slowly through the water, with the harbour rushing past and the deck a few metres away. It is a splash rather than a swim: you stay in the net the whole time, and crew watch from the stern.

Bring swimwear under your clothes and a towel if you plan to try it, and leave electronics on deck. The boom net runs when sea and weather conditions allow and is optional, so those who prefer to stay dry can watch and take photos. Children must be able to hold on confidently, and parents should judge whether younger ones are ready; it is one of the things that makes this Port Stephens boat tour popular with families.

Tomaree Head and the harbour entrance

Tomaree Head rises to about 160 metres at the southern side of the harbour entrance, a steep volcanic dome with a walking track to a summit lookout and the remains of Second World War gun emplacements that once guarded the port. Across the narrow entrance stands Yacaaba Head, the northern twin, and between them the Pacific swell meets the harbour's calm water. From the boat the two headlands frame the view out to Cabbage Tree Island and the open sea.

The cruise turns near the entrance so you see the heads at close range without leaving sheltered water, and the captain points out Shoal Bay, Zenith Beach behind Tomaree and the sea eagles that nest on the headland. The Tomaree Head summit walk is a natural companion to the cruise if you have an afternoon spare: the view back over Port Stephens shows the whole area you have just explored by water.