Bay of Islands Hole in the Rock Cruise from Paihia

Paihia and the Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands is a wide, island-studded bay on the east coast of Northland, about three hours' drive north of Auckland, and one of New Zealand's favourite summer destinations. Its warm, sheltered waters, sandy coves and forested islands are a protected maritime park, and the mild subtropical climate makes it pleasant almost all year.

Paihia is the main town on the bay and the departure point for most cruises, with its waterfront lined by motels, cafes and the ferry wharf. Just north of town are the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where New Zealand's founding treaty was signed in 1840, a visit well worth adding to your stay. If you are planning a Bay of Islands boat trip, this cruise is the classic way to see the outer bay in a single morning or afternoon.

Russell, the historic town across the bay

Across the water from Paihia lies Russell, known in the early 19th century as Kororāreka, the first permanent European settlement and trading harbour in New Zealand. Whaling ships once crowded its bay, and today its quiet tree-lined waterfront, the Strand, is one of the prettiest in the country.

Christ Church, built in 1835, is the oldest surviving church in New Zealand, and its walls still show marks from the battle of 1845, while Pompallier Mission preserves a printing works from the 1840s. Travellers staying in Russell can board this cruise at Russell Wharf with the second option, and from the water everyone enjoys a fine view of the old town and its waterfront.

Cape Brett and its lighthouse

Cape Brett, called Rākaumangamanga in the Māori language, is the long, rugged peninsula that closes the eastern side of the Bay of Islands and is sacred to the local tribes. Its steep cliffs plunge into deep blue water, and the open Pacific swells make the scenery here wilder than inside the bay.

The white Cape Brett Lighthouse, built in 1910 on a ledge high above the sea, guided ships around this exposed point for decades and once housed keepers and their families, who lived in complete isolation. From the boat you see the lighthouse and the keepers' house perched on the cliffs, and your guide tells their story. A Cape Brett cruise is the only easy way to reach this remote corner.

The Hole in the Rock at Motukōkako

Just off the tip of Cape Brett rises Motukōkako, also known as Piercy Island, a steep rocky island pierced by a natural tunnel that the sea has carved right through it. This is the famous Hole in the Rock, the highlight of every Hole in the Rock tour from Paihia, and the island is a place of deep cultural importance to the local Māori people.

When the sea is calm the skipper carefully steers the boat into the tunnel, and you look up at the rock walls as the swell echoes around you; when the swell is too big, the boat stays outside for close-up views and photos. Is the Hole in the Rock cruise worth it? For most visitors the answer is yes, as the mix of cliffs, open sea and the arch itself is unforgettable.

The Twin Lagoons, island stops and wildlife

On the way back into the bay the cruise stops at two islands. The first is the Twin Lagoons, a pair of sheltered, clear-water lagoons separated by a narrow strip of land, where you can swim, snorkel with the equipment provided and look for fish over the rocky reef. The second island stopover gives time for a swim, a short stroll or simply relaxing on the sand.

Throughout the cruise the guides watch for wildlife. Bottlenose and common dolphins live in the bay, little blue penguins bob on the water, and gannets and shearwaters dive for fish; orca and whales visit at times. The best time to visit the Bay of Islands for swimming and snorkelling is summer, from December to March, when the sea is warmest.