Zagreb Communism and Croatian Homeland War Tour

Ban Jelačić Square

Ban Jelačić Square is Zagreb's main square and the natural meeting point of the city, where the Upper Town, the Lower Town and the Dolac market meet. The tour starts in front of its equestrian statue, raised in 1866 to a 19th-century governor of Croatia. The statue itself tells a story of the century: it was removed in 1947, during the early years of socialist Yugoslavia, and returned to the square in 1990, as Croatia moved towards independence.

From here your guide sets the scene for the afternoon, explaining how Zagreb changed from the capital of a region of Austria-Hungary into a city of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, then of the socialist federation after 1945, and finally the capital of an independent Croatia in 1991. The square is busy and lively, with trams passing every few minutes, so meet a few minutes before 15:00 to find the group easily.

Lower Town and Life in Socialist Zagreb

The first part of the walk, about an hour with short stops, follows the streets of the Lower Town, where the architecture, the shops and the names of squares reflect the many changes of the 20th century. Your guide explains how people lived during the almost 50 years of socialist Yugoslavia: the planned economy, housing and work, travel abroad, music and the small details of daily life that older residents still remember.

The route also covers the late 1980s and the political and economic crisis that led to the end of the Yugoslav federation. The guide presents these events factually and with care, showing how they affected ordinary families in Zagreb. It is a valuable complement to the city's museums, and a good answer for anyone wondering what to do in Zagreb beyond the classic old-town walk.

The World War II Tunnel under the Upper Town

One of the highlights of this Zagreb history tour is the walk through the tunnel dug under the Upper Town during the Second World War as a shelter from air raids. Several hundred metres long, it runs beneath the old hill of Gradec and links two parts of the centre. After the war it was almost forgotten for decades, before being restored and opened to the public in the 2010s, and it is now used occasionally for exhibitions and events.

Inside, your guide explains the history of Croatia and Zagreb in the Second World War and the years that followed, and the cool, echoing passage gives a powerful sense of the period. Please note that the tunnel visit is not possible when an event is taking place inside; in that case the guide adapts the route. The tunnel is flat but can be damp, so wear comfortable shoes.

Homeland War Shelter and Multimedia Presentation

The tour ends in a hidden place that few visitors see: an authentic basement that residents used as a shelter during the air-raid alarms and attacks on Zagreb in the 1990s. Here, in about an hour, a multimedia presentation tells the story of the Croatian Homeland War of 1991 to 1995, from the declaration of independence in June 1991 to the end of the conflict, through photographs, video and the memories of people who lived through it.

The subject is treated in a neutral and respectful way, focusing on facts and on the experience of civilians, and leaves time for questions. Many travellers say it is the most memorable part of their visit to Zagreb. After the presentation, the group walks back to Ban Jelačić Square, where the tour ends, close to cafés, trams and the Dolac market.