Comuna 13 History and Street Food Walking Tour Medellin

Veinte de Julio and the origins of Comuna 13

Comuna 13, officially called San Javier, covers the steep western hillsides of Medellin. The tour begins in Veinte de Julio, one of its busiest neighbourhoods, outside a coffee shop on Calle 38A. From the 1960s onwards families arriving from the Colombian countryside built their houses here by hand, brick by brick, on slopes so steep that many streets are really stairways.

Your guide, who grew up in these streets, explains how the community organised water, electricity and schools on its own, and why the neighbourhood's position on the road linking the city to the west made it a place disputed by armed groups in the 1990s and early 2000s. It is a story told with honesty and respect, focused on the people who lived it rather than on those who caused the violence. Allow time for questions: this is the heart of a Comuna 13 history tour.

From fear to transformation

After the military operations of 2002 the area slowly began to change. The city invested in a cable car line connected to the San Javier metro station in 2008, new schools, a library park and, in 2011, the outdoor escalators. At the same time young people of the neighbourhood turned to hip-hop: rap, breakdance, DJing and graffiti became a way to occupy the streets peacefully and tell their own story.

Your guide shares what daily life looked like before and after, the memorials painted on the walls for the victims, and how tourism now supports families who sell snacks, art and souvenirs. You will feel the contrast between the hard memories and the music, colour and humour of today. Many visitors ask whether Comuna 13 is worth visiting: for most, this mix of history and hope is the most moving experience in Medellin.

Comuna 13 escalators and Independencia 1 and 2

The Comuna 13 escalators climb the hillside of Las Independencias in six covered sections, about 384 metres in total, replacing a climb on foot equal to a 28-storey building. When they opened in 2011 they cut a 30-minute climb with heavy shopping bags to about six minutes, and they are free for residents and visitors alike.

On this tour you ride them and then walk through Independencia 1 and Independencia 2, two of the neighbourhoods they serve. Here the alleys are lined with murals, plant pots, small shops and family terraces. The guide shows you the corners where the best photos are taken and introduces neighbours and artists along the way. Wear comfortable shoes: even with the escalators there are many steps and slopes.

Murals, galleries and the rap or breakdance show

Comuna 13 is one of the largest open-air street-art galleries in Latin America. The murals speak of memory, mothers searching for missing relatives, nature, Afro-Colombian and indigenous roots, and the right of children to play in peace. Many are repainted regularly, so even returning visitors find new works. The guide explains the symbols and the artists' techniques, and you visit small galleries where local painters sell prints and original pieces.

On the way you stop for a street show: a rap performance or a breakdance session by young artists of the neighbourhood, depending on who is performing that day. It is a lively, joyful moment and the clearest sign of how hip-hop culture helped rebuild the community. Tips for the performers and artists are always welcome.

Viewpoints over Medellin and neighbourhood street food

From the upper terraces of Comuna 13 the whole Aburrá Valley opens below you, from the red-brick hillsides to the towers of the city centre and the green mountains on the far side. These are the best viewpoints of the walk and the perfect place for photos. The best time to visit Comuna 13 is the morning, when it is cooler and quieter, or the late afternoon, when the light softens over the valley.

Two snacks are included. The first is a mango popsicle served the Colombian way, with salt and lemon, a sweet, salty and sour combination that is a local favourite on hot afternoons. The second is patacón with hogao: twice-fried green plantain topped with a slow-cooked sauce of tomato and spring onion. Some of the food is suitable for vegetarians.