Oslob Whale Sharks, Kawasan Falls and Moalboal Sardine Run, Cebu

Oslob whale sharks at dawn

The day begins in Oslob, on the south-east coast of Cebu, where whale sharks swim close to shore off the village of Tan-awan on most mornings. The whale shark is the biggest fish on the planet, a spotted, slow-moving filter feeder that eats plankton and small shrimp. Arriving early means calmer water, softer light and shorter queues, and many travellers call these few minutes with the gentle giants the moment of their trip.

After a briefing you are paddled a short distance offshore and snorkel with a mask and life jacket. Local fishermen feed the animals small amounts of shrimp, a practice that is openly debated by scientists, and the activity is run under the rules of the local government. Never touch a whale shark, keep several metres away, wear no sunscreen in the water and use no flash. Sightings are very likely but never guaranteed.

Kawasan Falls in Badian

From Oslob the road rounds the southern tip of the island and heads up the west coast to Badian, home of Kawasan Falls. An easy walk of about 15 to 20 minutes along a shaded riverside path leads to the falls, where water tumbles over limestone into wide basins of milky turquoise. The colour comes from minerals in the rock and is brightest on sunny days.

In the default option you enjoy the falls with a refreshing swim rather than canyoneering. Is Kawasan Falls worth visiting on a busy day like this? Absolutely: it is a cool, beautiful break between the two sea experiences. Food stalls near the falls sell simple meals, and if you prefer more adventure, other options replace the swim with a guided canyoneering descent of the river, with or without a zipline, for travellers aged seven and over.

The Moalboal sardine run

The last stop is Moalboal, a laid-back coastal town north of Badian. Just off Panagsama Beach, a short swim from shore, live enormous shoals of sardines that twist and turn together like a single silver cloud. Swimming into the shoal and watching it part around you is one of the most surreal marine experiences in the Philippines.

The sardines stay along the reef edge almost all year, close to the surface, so snorkelling is enough to enjoy them. Snorkelling gear is included, and your guide leads you to the best area according to the current. Stay close to the guide, wear your life jacket if you are not a strong swimmer and keep an eye out for passing boats near the shore. Allow about an hour or more in the water.

Sea turtles of Moalboal

The same reef is a feeding ground for green and hawksbill sea turtles, which graze on seagrass and algae in the shallows. Many snorkellers see one or more turtles while swimming towards the sardines, resting on the sand or rising slowly to breathe, though sightings are never guaranteed.

Turtles are protected in the Philippines and are easily stressed by crowds. Keep a distance of several metres, never touch, chase or block a turtle's way to the surface, and use no flash. Watching quietly from above usually gives you the longest and most natural view. After the snorkel there is time to rinse off and change before the drive back to Cebu City or Mactan.

Planning a south Cebu day trip

How to see Oslob, Kawasan Falls and Moalboal in one day: the three places sit at the southern end of Cebu, between about three and four hours by road from Cebu City, so a single well-timed loop is the most efficient way to visit them. The early 2:00 AM pickup is what makes it possible, with the whale sharks first, the waterfall in the late morning and the sardines after midday.

Breakfast and lunch are not included but are easy to buy along the way; halal-certified food is limited in the south of Cebu, while grilled fish, chicken, rice and vegetable dishes are widely available, and we are happy to advise. The best time to visit is the dry season from December to May. From June to November rough seas or heavy rain can change the plan for safety.