Private Royal Tombs and Thien Mu Pagoda Tour by Car Hue

Thien Mu Pagoda

Thien Mu, the Pagoda of the Celestial Lady, stands on a low hill on the north bank of the Perfume River, about 5 km from the Imperial City. Founded in 1601, it is the oldest pagoda in Hue and the city's best-loved symbol. Its seven-storey octagonal Phuoc Duyen tower, built in 1844 and about 21 metres high, has a statue of the Buddha on each level, and beside it a pavilion shelters a huge bronze bell cast in 1710.

Behind the tower, gardens of bonsai and frangipani lead to the main sanctuary, where monks still live and pray. The pagoda is free to enter and is usually the first stop, when the morning light on the river is at its softest. Your guide explains its legends and history, and from the terrace you have a lovely view over the boats on the river. Please cover shoulders and knees, as it is an active place of worship.

Thuy Xuan incense village

On the road to the tombs lies Thuy Xuan, a village where families have made incense for some 700 years. Its lanes are lined with workshops and stalls displaying bundles of incense sticks dyed red, pink, yellow and purple, fanned out like giant flowers to dry in the sun, which makes it one of the most photographed spots around Hue.

Here you can watch artisans roll the fragrant paste of sawdust, cinnamon and herbs around thin bamboo sticks with remarkable speed, and try your hand at rolling a few yourself. The villagers also sell conical hats, cinnamon and incense of all scents, so it is a good place to buy a souvenir. On the driver-only option this stop is included if you ask for it; just tell your driver at pickup.

Tomb of Tu Duc

The Tomb of Tu Duc is the most romantic of Hue's royal tombs. Built between 1864 and 1867 in a quiet valley of pine trees, it was designed by the emperor himself as a retreat, and he spent long days here writing poetry, fishing and relaxing in the wooden pavilions that stand over Luu Khiem Lake. The complex blends temples, courtyards, a stone honour yard with mandarin statues and a stele pavilion carrying one of the longest inscriptions in Vietnam.

Tu Duc's real burial place was kept secret and has never been found, which adds to the mystery of the site. Plan about 45 minutes to an hour to walk around the lake and gardens; the guide shows you the best route and tells the story of the emperor's long reign. The Tomb of Tu Duc opening hours run from early morning to late afternoon, so the order of visits is adjusted to your start time.

Tomb of Khai Dinh

High on the slope of Chau Chu Mountain, the Tomb of Khai Dinh looks like no other monument in Hue. Built from 1920 to 1931 for the twelfth Nguyen emperor, it was made of reinforced concrete rather than wood and brick, and it mixes Vietnamese traditions with European Gothic and Baroque details. A long, steep stairway flanked by dragon balustrades climbs to an honour courtyard lined with stone mandarins, elephants and horses.

At the top, the Thien Dinh Palace is the real surprise: its walls and ceilings are covered in dazzling mosaics of broken porcelain and coloured glass showing landscapes, flowers and dragons, around a gilded bronze statue of the emperor. Allow about 45 minutes and be ready for many steps. The view from the terraces across the valley is one of the best on any Hue royal tombs tour.

Tomb of Minh Mang

The last stop is the Tomb of Minh Mang, the second emperor of the Nguyen dynasty, built from 1840 to 1843 on Cam Khe Mountain near the meeting of two streams that form the Perfume River. Many consider it the most beautiful and balanced of all the tombs: its buildings, gates, bridges and courtyards are set along a single central axis that runs for about 700 metres through gardens and lakes.

You walk from the great Dai Hong Mon gate through the honour courtyard and Sung An Temple, across bridges over the Trung Minh Lake to the two-storey Minh Lau Pavilion and the crescent-shaped lake around the walled burial mound. Plan about an hour here. It is a calm, shady place to end the day before your car takes you back to your hotel in Hue.